Parmigiano Reggiano vs. Parmesan: Imitating the King of All Cheeses.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is revered as one of the best cheeses in the world, and rightfully so: Since the 13th century, this magnificent cow milk creation has been gracing recipes and cheese plates all over the world. Whether shaved over grilled vegetables, grated onto pasta or simply broken into pieces and served with melon as a snack, the “King of All Cheeses” has earned its reputation. 

Meanwhile, sitting way up high in the imported aisle of your local supermarket lurks an imposter. Cloaked in a green cardboard tube, it surreptitiously passes itself off as the king or at least is content to let the implication be made. Even the name is evocative of royalty - Parmesan. Worse yet, many refrigerated dairy cases offer wedges of ‘Italian-style’ hard cow-milk cheeses with names like Parmezano and Real Parma, sly attempts to mimic Parmigiano Reggiano’s famous name. 

It’s no wonder people often mistake these clever alternatives for the real deal, an outcome that is not sheer coincidence. With names that are so similar, textures and characteristics vaguely reminiscent of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a lower price point, most people purchase and consume the imposters without ever understanding the difference, and why that difference is so important.

Like other authentic cheeses, there are only three ingredients used in the making of Parmigiano-Reggiano - cow milk, salt, and rennet. No preservatives. No synthetic ingredients. There’s no need for them. When those three ingredients are brought together with the proper time and temperature, magic happens. From start to finish, the process is completely natural.

The same cannot be said of other versions. Pre-grated Parmesean often uses cellulose powder (purified powder made from cooking and acidifying raw plant fiber, usually from wood) to keep the grains from clumping. Potassium Sorbate, a potassium salt made from sorbic acid that is water-soluble, is used to preserve foods for extended storage or containment. These ingredients, and the techniques employed to use them in processed foods, hardly equate the resulting products to legitimate substitutes for the real thing. 

How did this happen? It’s all in the name. ‘Parmigiano-Reggiano’ is two adjectives linked together. ‘Parmigiano’ meaning “of or from Parma”, and “Reggiano” signifying the same for Reggio-Emilia. Originally, the cheese could only be made in the northern Italian provinces of Parma, Reggio-Emilia, and parts of Bologna, Modena, and Mantova. The hyphenated name ‘Parmigiano-Reggiano’ came to represent the cheese made in all four provinces and is a protected designation of origin (PDO) food for Italy, hence the official designation of Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO. Wheels are required to be stamped with that designation, as well as information conveying which dairy producer made that wheel. 

The name Parmesano, (“of or from Parma”), actually began around the 16th century as a popular way to refer to the real stuff in Italy. This nickname was adopted by the French as ‘Parmesan’ when referring to the cheese, and eventually made its way around the globe. It wasn’t long before makers of those cheeses evocative of Parmigiano Reggiano began using the name to refer to their product, and the practice stuck. 

So successful was that practice, that it took a decree from the courts of the European Union to declare the term “Parmesean” may only refer to the actual cheese Parmigiano Reggiano DOP when used inside the EU. This meant any products imported into the union could not use that name as it may be used elsewhere - Kraft and other producers could no longer call their cardboard tubes “Parmesean”. 

Does it matter? Absolutely it does. One of the main reasons Parmigiano Reggiano DOP is so heavily regulated and protected is to guarantee the level of quality. Centuries of creating this amazing cheese have yielded what is often called, “a near-perfect food”. Loaded with calcium, protein, and vitamins, it is extremely nutritious. Parmigiano Reggiano DOP also offers some of the highest levels of savory ‘umami’ taste of any food on the planet, making it a versatile ingredient for cooking. Look at the ingredient lists of the other cheeses, and it becomes apparent how different they really are. 

Reaching for authentic Parmigiano Reggiano DOP cheese does more than making sure you will enjoy its complex, intense flavors, and textures. It also supports the value of tradition and history in what we eat, something that can’t be said by imposters vying for the culinary crown. Long live the king. 

Originally published in www.cheeseprofessor.com.