Kim Kim Dao shakes a small skillet filled with star anise, cloves, and cinnamon sticks over a stovetop burner. Her small, bright kitchen quickly fills with their fragrance. “The secret is the spices,” she says. “Everything starts there.”
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Still reeling from the jet lag caused by 11 hours of flying and the stress of a painfully short layover in London, I sat down for my first meal in Sofia, Bulgaria. That first bite, and the many that followed, took me completely by surprise…
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